The Wild Mussel of Portonovo — a Made in Conero gastronomic excellence, recognized as a Slow Food Presidium since 2004 and a source of pride for the people of Ancona — is unfortunately going through a period of serious difficulty.
Environmental issues such as rising sea temperatures and fishing pressure have led to a sharp decline in the population of mussels suitable for harvesting.
To allow for the natural recovery of this unique product, Slow Food Italy and Slow Food Ancona e Conero have decided to temporarily suspend the Presidium throughout 2025.
It is a difficult and unpopular decision, but a necessary one to prevent the irreversible loss of both the mosciolo and the community of fishermen who have been safeguarding it for generations.
“Fishing them now would mean risking losing them forever,” declared Raffaella Ponzio, National Manager of the Slow Food Presidia.
This assumption of responsibility, she added, must be shared by citizens, restaurateurs, and fishermen alike — an ethical pause in favor of Mother Nature and biodiversity.
The suspension also sends a strong cultural message: protecting the Wild Mussel of Portonovo from disappearance means protecting the territory itself.
Meanwhile, the Municipality of Ancona and the Harbour Master’s Office are already at work, carrying out increased controls and awareness campaigns among residents and beachgoers.